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SIDE SADDLE SAFETY &
FIT
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Saddle Safety
- Billets:
Bend in half and listen. Check for tearing and grooving.
- Tree: Check
fork by spreading points. Check cantly by pressure with the heel of
your hand. Check waist by holding saddle at gullet and cantle and twisting.
- Upper Pommel:
Check for motion side-to-side and back-to-front.
- Leaping Pommel:
Check for stopping at proper position, and amount of "play."
- Breakaway Mechanism:
Check for smooth release and use of proper fitting.
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Fitting the Saddle
to the Horse
- Determine the horse's
shoulder blade, and locate the "pocket" below the point of the wither
and behind the shoulder blade.
- Place the saddle
on the horse's back, point of the tree in the "pocket" (easier to see
from the off side)
- With saddle loosely
girthed, use your hands to check the fit of the saddle to the
horse's back. Run you hand between the saddle and the horse,
down each point. Run your hand under each side of the panel from waist
to cantle. Check for 2-3 fingers clearance at fork and at cantle.
- With someone seated
in the saddle, check all the above again. If the pressure hurts
your hand at any point, it hurts the horse more!
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Signs of Poor Fit
- Pinching under
long (near) point - tree is too narrow or improper curve.
- Pinching at off-side
wither - too narrow in gullet.
- Bridging (saddle
contacts at the fork and the cantle, with less contact at the waist)
- saddle is too long and/or needs more padding at waist to conform to
horse's back. (A lift-back or banjo pad increases bridging
and is therefore only a temporary measure until the saddle
can be properly stuffed.)
- Hitting the spinal
ridge at fork or cantle - tree is too wide and/or saddle needs more
stuffing.
- "Ruffles" - turned
patches of hair that show when saddle is removed
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Results of Poor
Fit
To the Horse:
- Behavior problems:
wringing tail, humped back, bucking, sour ears, refusing the
near canter lead.
- Injuries: permanent
white hair growth on off-side wither from prolonged
pressure, resulting in tissue damage. Bumps on spinal ridge from compression
damage. Soft swellings from pressure spots of unevenly stuffed saddle.
To the Rider:
- Saddle "rolling"
or "dragging" to near side - too wide a tree or improperly stuffed.
Occasionally too narrow a tree, saddle "perching."
- "Uphill" seat
- saddle too narrow and/or too high in fork, and/or not enough padding
at cantle or too much padding in gullet.
Proper fit to the horse is
determined by a combination of factors: tree width, gullet width, saddle
length and panel contour.
A saddle fits the horse when your hand can be
slid comfortably under all points of contact listed above. Contact is
even at all points, distributing rider's weight evenly. Saddle length
appropriate to back length. Horse moves freely and comfortably.
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Measuring
Side Saddles & Riders
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THIGH LENGTH
The distance from a line drawn perpendicular to back line (B), to bend
at back of the knee (A)
ESL or EFFECTIVE SEAT LENGTH
The distance from the front of the upright pommel (A) to center back of
cantle (B)
SEAT WIDTH
Measurement across the widest part of the seat (C to D)
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ESL AVERAGES
20" = short thigh length
21-22" = average thigh
23-24" = tall and/or full figure |
SEAT WIDTH AVERAGES
12" = child
12½" = teen or slim woman
13" = slim/average
13½" = average
14" = full hip
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TREE WIDTH = barrel size
GULLET WIDTH = shoulder size
4" = narrow
5" = medium
5½" = wide
6" = extra wide
POMMEL PLACEMENT
Average set = average size leg
Wide set = full let (can be padded up for slimmer leg)
Bent pommel (acute angle) = impairs rider position & comfort
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Proper fit for the rider
is determined by a combination of factors: seat width, seat length and
pommel placement.
A saddle fits the rider when there is aproximately
3-4 fingers space behind her in the seat. The "set" of the pommel allows
her right thigh to parallel that edge of the side saddle. She "centers"
easily in the saddle. She has a feeling of ease and comfort.
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